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French Polynesia  (Itinerary)


A wonderful and ever-changing sunrise was at our stern as we headed for Nuku Hiva, one of the Marquesas Islands and our first stop after 8 days at sea.

 


The island looks inviting as we come in.

 
The native greeters played their drums, blew their conch shells, and sang to each tender that came in from the ship. They worked for many hours.

 

 

    

 
Our plan was to go out snorkeling with a resident pod of whales but, even though we were on the first tender, the dive boat had left by the time we got there. The dive shop also sold pareos and tropical dresses. We were directed to an Australian who was willing to take the 4 of us out, but by then the time constraints made it impractical. We took the next tender back to the ship, dropped our snorkel gear and headed out again prepared for walking.

 
Next to the dive shop was a snack bar with wi-fi behind the wall of ripening bananas. I brought my computer in my backpack for the walk and then I'd check my email, etc. 

 
Several pair of fairy terns circled around the area. This was taken from the tender.


The backbone of the mountain was exposed here.

 
There were quite a few live-aboard sailboats visiting this island. Once we came ashore again, we began our walk next to the tender dock where locals were cleaning the catch of the day and throwing the guts and waste into the water.

 
Some carved wood and tropical fabrics were offered for sale on tables surrounding a square with this interesting tiki family.

 
A nice variety of tikis and native carvings were arranged along the waterfront.

 
We interrupted our shoreline stroll to exchange some money into the local currency, which would be used on the next 2 stops as well. We liked how the bank sign made it look like it was on the edge of the jungle. We also stopped to photograph this tethered bull in a riverbed near the shoreline.

   
We liked the old gnarly trees.

 
As we crossed the river and continued down the shoreline, there was an elevated stone platform with more sculptures, some of which were reminiscent of Easter Island.

 

 

  
This sculpture seemed almost Picasso-like and was interesting on all sides.


A meeting house tiki in front of the thatched meeting house was at the end of the raised area.

  
The meeting house supports were carved into different images.

  
An ancient basin carved into a rock is the last tiki and then it's down this beach...

 
Still life arrangements on the beach. The dark sand is from the volcanic basalt. Coral is also worn down from being tossed on the beach with the rocks.


Some outrigger canoes.


We were pretty much alone on the beach for a while.

 
The white sand from the wearing down of the coral creates interesting shapes as it washes on top of the dark, volcanic  sand.

 

 
A couple of tethered horses not far from the beach mow the roadside grasses. The Amsterdam is above a small land bridge from this vantage point.


This rock is an island at high tide, but not at low tide.

 
A lava vein cuts across the the rock and out on the beach, which is much rockier out here.

   
We saw a profile of a young girl or an old man in the cliff. A beautiful shell...

   

  
A spiny urchin and a bunch of pencil urchin spines that Dean found on the beach.

 
The weathered and lichen-covered cross indicates the church road.

 
A graceful arched stone wall serves as the entrance to the church yard. The peaked shelter protects a sculpture of a pope.

 
Isn't it interesting that Jesus as depicted here looks like the natives—complete with a grass/leaf lava-lava (skirt).

 

 
The carved pulpit and the Madonna are part of this hand-crafted church.


After a couple of hours on the Internet near the tender dock, we boarded the ship for the sail away.

 
The locals on their out-rigger canoes caught rides on the wakes the ship's tenders and there were several waiting to escort us out of the harbor.  Dean's log: Nuku Hiva.

~ ~ ~

It took a day at sea as we sailed out of the Marquesas Islands and to The Society Islands and into Pape'ete, Tahiti. We were there on the 2012 cruise, so see that page for details on the town, but we found some different sites this time around, which was a Saturday and a Sunday. (Itinerary)

 
The buses don't run on Sunday so we took one when we got into port. This little girl was traveling with her grandmother,  mother, and new sibling.

 
After taking the bus back, we saw the 3-man out-rigger canoe near the ship. Then we walked along a very nice waterfront park. A local boy was playing an 8-string ukulele, which is sorta like a 12-string guitar where there are 2 strings for each position, but are tuned slightly differently for a richer tone. Here they tune the 2nd string of each pair to be slightly flat for a French mandolin sound. 

 
There are many more canoes on stands here in the park.

 
Some boys had fashioned an exercise bar between 2 palms in the park. This monument is in celebration of Tahiti's 30 years of autonomy from France—1984 to 2014.


This monument was near the end of the waterfront park. We continued walking and found these boys surfing at a mouth of a small river where the waves were breaking right into the rock jetties.


We'd seen these colorful birds here last time and in our various Hawaiian trips.

 
An interesting logo adorns the side of a building and some laundry hung to dry on a balcony.


As we crossed the bridge over the river we saw the surfers from a different angle.

 
We liked the pattern built into this rock wall and the graphic on the side of the swimming pool building that uses iridescent shells as the bubbles next to the swimmer.

 
A man was teaching the kids to fish.


We looked back from the fishing lessons toward the boat and caught yet another view of the surfers including one who was about to be parted from his board.

 
From there we crossed the street and walked the cemetery.

 
This stages of life for women and men were carved into either side of a vault.

 
A dove adorned the top of a cross and the saying on this vault translates to "Our sorrows." We like our translation better—no regrets.

 
The Polynesian logo includes a representation of the water, the sun, a 2-hulled war canoe, and the 5 stick figures representing the 5 peoples that make up Polynesia was on the side of a college building. Nearby we stopped and had a nice conversation with this man who was taking out the trash for his store. It turns out that there are several of these stores and Maeva is his daughter.

   
The logo was on the gate of a government complex, which was closed for the weekend. A reflective door... And a monument to the unknown soldier, but we'd never see one with a chicken on top before.

 
We took a photo of the greeters for the Paul Gauguin cruise ship on the other side of the dock as we came in from our walk. Paul Gauguin was a French Impressionist painter who spent most of his later life here on the islands. His tropical scenes sold well in France and also sold the French people on the paradisical nature of the islands.

     
A Polynesian feast was served as dinner at poolside that evening. The watermelon artists are amazing.

 

 

 

Sunday morning we were out early because we'd heard that the market was active early on Sundays.  We'd been to the market on the 2012 cruise, so you can check out how much more sedate it was on a weekday. 

We liked this Easter Island-style tiki right next to the port tourist office with lichen growing in its eyes and nostrils. See our Easter Island page from the 2012 voyage for a comparison. 

  

 

 
On the way to the market there are some areas with some extensive mosaics depicting marine life.

  
We took the clear umbrellas offered by the ship to keep us at least a little bit dry. Much of the market action took place outside of the market building—mostly locals selling produce from their own gardens.

 

 
An unusual fish with a proboscis. 

 
A girl bides her time while her mom sells stuff. The herbs look nice and fresh.


The longest line in the market was for cooked meat—probably beef, but it was hard to tell. One man was carving it up while people waited. It did smell delicious.  Dean's log: Pape'ete.

Since it rained harder and harder and most everything else was closed for Sunday, we spent the rest of the day aboard the ship. Our next stop, Bora Bora is the last of the French Polynesian ports.  

On to Bora Bora ... >>

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